Skirt Block

Before you start working on making skirt patterns, I would like to teach you how to create your very own skirt block!

Follow these steps to get started:

Measurements  required  to  draft  the  tailored  skirt  block:

Waist  =  68cm

Hips  =  94cm

Waist  to  hip  =  20.6cm

Skirt  length  =  60cm

Begin  with  a  1⁄3  scale  ruler (1:3  ratio),  each  centimetre  displayed  on  this  ruler  is  1⁄3   the  size  of  a  regular  centimetre)  to  create  a  1⁄3  scale  skirt  block.  Draw  this  block  on   an  A3  piece  of  paper.

Once  you  have  completed  your  1⁄3  scale  block  move  onto  your  full-­scale  block.  To   make  this  block  you  will  need  a  regular  scaled  ruler  and  an  A1  piece  of  cardboard.

(Note:  The  measurements  are  the  same  for  both  the  1⁄3  scale  and  full-­‐scale  blocks,  just  ensure  you  are   using  the  correct  ruler  for  each  (1⁄3  scale  ruler  for  1⁄3  scale  block,  regular  scale  ruler  for  full  scale).

 

1. Mark  point  1  in  the  top  left  hand  corner  of  your  paper,  leaving  a  5cm  margin   from  both  the  top  and  side  of  the  page.

 

2. Half  the  hip  measurement:

94  ÷  2     =  47

Add  1.5  to  this  result:

47  +  1.5     =  48.5 3.

 

3. Use  a  grading  triangle  to  square  across3  48.5cm  from  point  1  to  mark  point 2.

 

4. Continue  using  the  grading  triangle  and  square  down  60cm  from  point  1  to   mark  point  3,  creating  the  centre  back  line.

 

5. Square  right  across  48.5cm  from  point  3  and  mark  point  4,  creating  your   Hemline.

 

6. Join  points  2  and  4.  This  should  create  a  60cm  line,  which  will  now  become   your  centre  front  line.

 

7. Measure  20.6  cm  vertically  along  line  1‐3,  starting  from  point  1,  to  mark  point   5.  This  is  your  waist  to  hip  measurement.

 

8. Square  across  48.5  cm  from  point  5,  intersecting  the  centre  front  line,  and   mark  point  6.

 

 

Back    

9. Quarter  the  hip  measurement:

94  ÷  4       =  23.5

Add  1.5  to  this  result:

23.5  +  1.5   =  25

 

10. Measure  25cm  along  line  5-­6,  starting  at  point  5,  and  mark  point  7.

 

11. Square  down  39.4cm  from  point  7,  intersecting  the  hemline,  and  mark  point   8.

 

12. Use  your  grading  triangle  to  Square  up  20.6  cm  from  point  7,  intersecting   line  1-­2.

 

13. Quarter  the  waist  measurement:

68  ÷4   =  17

Add  4.5  to  this  result:

17  +  4.25   =  21.25

 

14. Measure  21.25cm  along  line  1-­2,  starting  at  point  1,  and  mark  point  9.

 

15. Measure  1.25cm  vertically  upward  from  point  9  and  mark  point  10.

 

16. Use  a  ruler  to  join  point  1  to  point  10  with  a  dotted  line  and  point  7  to  point   10  with  a  dotted  line.

 

17. Divide  line  1-­10  by  3:

21.4  ÷  3   =  7.1333

Round  off  to  the  nearest  100th   =  7.13

 

18.  Measure  7.13  cm  along  line  1-­10,  starting  from  point  1,  to  mark  point  11.

 

19.  Measure  7.13cm  along  line  1­‐10,  starting  from  point  11,  to  mark  point  12.

 

20.  Square  down  with  a  dotted  line,  using  line  1­‐10,  14cm  from  point  11  to  mark   point  13.

 

21. Square  down  with  a  dotted  line,  using  line  1­‐10,  12.5cm  from  point  12  to   mark  point  14.

 

22. Mark  1cm  on  either  side  of  point  11,  on  line  1­‐10.  Draw  a  straight  line  from   each  of  these  points  toward  point  13  (this  will  create  a  dart that  is  2cm   wide).

 

23. Mark  1cm  on  either  side  of  point  12,  on  line  1-­‐10.  Draw  a  straight  line  from   each  of  these  points  toward  point  14  (this  will  create  a  second  dart  that  is   2cm  wide).

 

24. Measure  line  7‐10:

=  22.2  cm

Half  this  result:

22.2  ÷  2   =  11.1

Mark  this  point  along  that  line.

 

25. From  that  point  measure  outward  0.5cm,  from  line  7­‐10,  and  mark  a  point.

 

26. Using  this  point  and  points  7  and  10  create  a  curve,  using  your  French  curve10   as  a  guide,  intercepting  each  of  these  points.  This  creates  a  curved  back  side   seam.

 

 

Front  

27. Quarter  the  waist  measurement:

68  ÷  4     =  17

Add  2.25  to  this  result:

17  +  2.25     =  19.25

 

28. Measure  19.25  along  line  1-2,  starting  from  point  2,  and  mark  point  15.

 

29. Measure  1.25cm  vertically  upward  from  point  15  to  mark  point  16.

 

30. Use  a  ruler  to  join  point  2  to  point  16  with  a  dotted  line  and  point  7  to  point   16  with  a  dotted  line.

 

31. Divide  line  2-­16  by  3:

19.4  ÷  3   =  6.4666

Round  off  to  the  nearest  100th     =  6.46

 

32. Measure  6.46cm  along  line  2-­16,  starting  from  point  16,  and  mark  point  17.

 

33. Square  down  10cm  with  a  dotted  line,  using  line  2-­‐16,  from  point  17  to  mark   point  18.

 

34. Mark  1cm  on  either  side  of  point  17,  on  line  2-­16.  Draw  a  straight  line  from   each  of  these  points  toward  point  18  (this  will  create  a  third  dart  that  is  2cm   wide).

 

35. Measure  line  7-­16:

=  22.  2cm

Half  this  result:

22.2  ÷  2   =  11.1cm

 

36. Mark  this  point  along  that  line.

 

37. From  that  point  measure  0.5cm  outwards  from  line  7-­16,  and  mark  a  point.

 

38. Using  this  point  and  points  7  and  16  to  create  a  curve,  using  your  French   curve  as  a  guide,  intercepting  each  of  these  points.  This  creates  a  curved   front  side  seam.

 

39. Use  your  French  curve  to  create  curved  lines  connecting  points  1-­10  and   points  2-­16  respectively.  This  becomes  your  Waistline.

 

Your  finished Skirt  Block  pattern  should  now  look  like  this:

 

Cutting Your Skirt Block:

40. Cut  pattern  pieces  out.

41. Fold  darts  with  the  excess  cardboard  going  toward  the  centre  construction   line.

42. Whilst  darts  are  folded,  redraw  your  waistline  curves  (lines  1-­10  and  2-­16)   and  run  your  tracing  wheel  over  the  modified  curve,  penetrating  through   the  folded  darts.

43. Use  your  grading  triangle  /  1⁄3  scale  ruler,  to  square  off  both  side  seams   with  a  right  angle.

44. Align  your  French  Curve  to  your  right  angle  and  the  end  of  your  dart  leg   closest  to  your  side  seam  lines  and  adjust  the  waistline  curve.

45. Cut  along  the  new  waistline.

 

This  is  now  your  finished  skirt  block:

 

 

Now that you have completed your Skirt Block you are ready to start your skirt patterns!

 

 

Flared Skirt

Click here for construction instructions for the Flared Skirt.

 

Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A3 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A2/A1 piece of paper

Front:

  1. Fold your paper in ½ align the centre front line of your front skirt block exactly along the fold.

  2. Use your block as a template and trace around it.

  3. Mark the location of your notches and dart point.

  4. Remove your block.

  5. Draw in your dart legs for your dart, starting from your dart notches and intersecting at the dart point.

 

6. Your dart should sit ⅓ of the way in from the side seam to your centre front line.

 

7. Divide your block into 1/3's.

 

8. Cut out your Front pattern shape.

 

9 . Cut along the division lines (this is called the cut and slash method)

 

10. With the division line closest to your side seam, it should align with the point of your dart. When cutting along this division line, cut along the left had side dart leg, as we will eventually eliminate the dart all together.

 

11. Arrange your pieces in order to lay the middle piece over the dart, creating an even flow through.

 

12. Measure the distance added within each panel between the hipline. (Total of 3.7 cm)

 

13. Minus 3.7 cm from your side seam, drawing a straight line from your waistline to your hemline.

 

14. Using your setsquare, square off your side seam to your hemline.

 

15. Use your French curve to adjust the hemline curve, creating a smooth, even flow through.

 

16. Add your seam allowances:

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1.5 cm

Cut your front pattern out.

Snip your notches at 3mm:

Label your Front pattern piece:

 

FLARED SKIRT

SKIRT FRONT

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

2/3

 

Back:

  1. Place your block onto your paper.

  2. Use your block as a template and trace around it.

  3. Mark the location of your notches and dart points.

  4. Remove your block.

  5. Draw in the dart legs for both your darts, starting from your dart notches and intersecting at the dart points.

 

  1. Your darts should divide your skirt into thirds

  2. Divide your block into 3rds by squaring down from your dart points to your hemline.

  3. Cut out your block shape.

  4. Cut along the division lines (this is called the cut and slash method).

  5. Cut along the left had side dart legs, as we will eventually eliminate the darts all together.

 

  1. Arrange your pieces in order to lay the middle piece over the left dart and the right hand side piece over the right hand side dart, creating an even flow through.

  2. Measure the distance added within each panel between the hipline. (Total of 3.3 cm).

 

  1. Minus 3.3 cm from your side seam, drawing a straight line from your waistline to your hemline.

  2. Using your setsquare, square off your side seam to your hemline.

  3. Use your French curve to adjust the hemline curve, creating a smooth, even flowthrough.

 

  1. Add your seam allowances:

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Centre Back = 2cm

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1.5 cm

  1. Cut your back pattern out.

  2. Snip your notches at 3mm:

  3. Label your Back pattern piece:

FLARED SKIRT

SKIRT FRONT

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

 3/3

 

 

 

Finished Pattern:

 

 

 

 

A-Line Skirt

 

Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A3 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A2/A1 piece of paper.

Front:

1. Fold your paper in ½ align the centre front line of your front skirt block exactly along the fold.

2. Use your block as a template.

3. Mark the location of your notches and dart point.

Remove your block.

4. Draw in your dart legs for your dart, starting from your dart notches and intersecting at the dart point.

 

5. Square up 1.5 cm up from your dart point to mark your drill hole.

6. Square across 8 cm from the point where your hemline meets your side seam and mark a point

 

  1. Just above the hip line you will notice the widest part of your side seam curve.

  2. From this point draw a straight line to meet the point you marked in the previous step, extending your hemline and creating the ‘A’ like shape.

  3. Use your Set Square to square off your side seam to your hemline, creating a right angle at your side seam.

  4. Use your French Curve to adjust the curve of your hemline, creating a smooth and even follow through.

 

  1. Add your seam allowances:

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Hem = 2.5 cm

  1. Cut your front pattern out.

  2. Snip your notches at 3mm:

  3. Label your Front Pattern Piece:

A-LINE SKIRT

SKIRT FRONT

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

1/2

 

 

Back:

  1. Place your block onto your paper.

  2. Use your block as a template and trace around it.

  3. Mark the location of your notches and dart points

  4. Remove your block.

  5. Draw in the dart legs for both your darts, starting from your dart notches and intersecting at the dart points.

 

20. Mark your drill holes (1.5 cm up from the dart point) and square across 8 cm from the point where your hemline meets your side seam and mark a point

 

21. Just above the hip line you will notice the widest part of your side seam curve. From this point draw a straight line to meet the point you marked in the previous step, extending your hemline and creating the ‘A’ like shape.

22. Use your Set Square to square off your side seam to your hemline, creating a right angle at your side seam.

23. Use your French Curve to adjust the curve of your hemline, creating a smooth and even follow through.

 

24. Add your seam allowances:

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Centre Back = 2cm

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Hem = 2.5 cm

25. Cut your back pattern out.

26. Snip your notches at 3mm:

27. Label your Back pattern piece:

A-LINE SKIRT

SKIRT FRONT

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

1/2

 

 

Final Pattern:

 

 

 

 

Panel Pencil Skirt With Facing

 

 

Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A4 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A3 piece of paper:

Skirt:

Front:

  1. Fold your paper in ½ align the centre front line of your front skirt block exactly along the fold.

  2. Use your front skirt block as a template and Trace it.

  3. Mark the location of your hip line notches (20cm below the waistline) and your dart point.

  4. Remove your block

  5. Draw in your dart legs, starting from your dart notches, intersecting at the dart point.

  6. Reposition your dart:

  7. Measure the distance from the side seam to the centre front line, intersecting the dart point.

  8. Half the measurement of this line and mark a point. This becomes your new dart point.

  9. Draw in the legs of your new dart. Your dart should remain 2 cm wide.

  10. Square down from your new dart point to your hemline.

  11. Trace your panels onto a new piece of paper. Your Centre Front Panel should follow the right dart leg and your Side Front Panel should follow your left dart leg.

  12. Add the seam allowances to your front panels:

Centre Front Panel:

Seam = 1.2 cm

Waist line = 1.2 cm

Hem = 2.5 cm

Side Front Panel:

Seam = 1.2 cm seams

Waist Line = 1.2 cm

Hem = 2.5 cm

  1. Snip your notches at 3mm.

  2. Align your panels at the seam notches and check the flow through of the waistline and hemline is a smooth and even curve. Adjust if necessary.

  3. Label your front panel pattern pieces:

Centre Front Panel:

PANEL PENCIL SKIRT

CENTRE FRONT PANEL

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

1/6

Side Front Panel:

PANEL PENCIL SKIRT

SIDE FRONT PANEL

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

2/6

 

 

Back:

  1. Use your back skirt block as a template and trace it onto a new single sheet of paper.

  2. Mark the location of your notches and your dart points.

  3. Remove your block.

  4. Draw in the dart legs of both your darts, starting from your dart notches, intersecting at the dart points. 

  5. Combine and reposition your darts:

  6. Remove your centre back dart all together

  7. Enlarge your side seam dart so it now has a width of 3cm. (You must remove 1cm of the width of your skirt to compensate for the extra centimetre from the new dart

  8. Refer to your centre front panel. Measure the distance of the hemline from the Centre Front to the Side Seam.

  9. Use this measurement on your Centre Back Panel to mark a point along the hemline

  10. Square across from your Centre Back to your Side Seam, intersecting your original dart point.

  11. Square up from the point you marked in step 17.4 to intersect the line you drew in step 17.5. 

  12. Trace your panels onto a new piece of paper. Your Centre Back Panel should follow the right dart leg and your Side Back Panel should follow your left dart leg.

  13. Add your seam allowances:

Centre Back Panel:

Seams = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Centre Back = 2 cm

Hem = 2.5 cm

 

Side Back Panel

Seams = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Centre Back = 2 cm

Hem = 2.5 cm

  1. Snip your notches at 3mm.

  2. Align your panels at the seam notches and check the flow through of the waistline and hemline is a smooth and even curve. Adjust if necessary.

  3. Label your Back Panel pattern pieces:

Centre Back Panel:

PANEL PENCIL SKIRT

CENTRE BACK PANEL

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

3/6

Side Back Panel:

PANEL PENCIL SKIRT

SIDE BACK PANEL

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

4/6

 

Facing:

Front:

  1. Combine your front panel pieces, folding out the seam allowances.

  2. Take a new sheet of paper, and fold it in ½.

  3. Use your panel pieces as guides and trace onto your new page, without the seam allowances.

  4. Adjust the length of your panels along the centre front line to create a 5cm deep Front Facing pattern piece from the waistline.

  5. Add your seam allowances.

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 0.6 cm

  1. Cut your Front Facing pattern piece out.

  2. Label your Front Facing pattern piece:

PANEL PENCIL SKIRT

FRONT FACING

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

5/6

 

Back:

  1. Combine your back panel pieces, folding out the seam allowances.

  2. Use your panel pieces as guides and trace onto your new page, without the seam allowances.

  3. Adjust the length of your panels along the centre back line to create a 5cm deep Back Facing pattern piece from the waistline.

  4. Add your seam allowances.

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 0.6 cm

Centre Back = 2cm

  1. Cut your Back Facing pattern piece out.

  2. Label your Back Facing pattern piece:

PANEL PENCIL SKIRT

BACK FACING

CUT 1 PAIR

SIZE 10

6/6

 

 

 

 

Mini Pleat Skirt with Yoke

 

 

 

(Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A4 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A2 piece of paper):

Yoke:

 

Front:

  1. Take a sheet of paper and fold in ½ aligning the centre front line of your front skirt block exactly along the fold.

  2. Use your front skirt block as a template and trace it.

  3. Mark the location of your notches (20cm below the waistline) and your dart point.

  4. Remove your block

  5. Draw in your dart legs, starting from your dart notches, intersecting at the dart point.

  6. Cut your traced pattern piece out. 

  7. Close your dart, creating your waistline curve.

  8. Measure 10 down from the waistline along the centre front to the side seam and draw a curved line mirroring your waistline curve. This becomes the hem of your Front Yoke pattern piece.

  9. Take a new single sheet of paper and fold it in half, aligning the fold along the fold of the pattern underneath.

  10. Trace the shape of your Front Yoke pattern piece. 

  11. Snip your notches.

  12. Add your seam allowances:

Side seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 0.6 cm

Hem = 1.5 cm

  1. Label your Font Yoke pattern piece

MINI PLEAT SKIRT

FRONT YOKE

CUT 2 SELF ON FOLD (FUSE)

SIZE 10

1/4 

Skirt:

Front:

  1. Return to your traced front skirt block pattern and cut along the yoke hem to get your skirt shape.

  2. Square up 20 cm along your centre front from the hemline.

  3. Square across to your seam line, adjusting the length of your skirt to 30cm. (Including your yoke your skirt will have a total length of 40cm). 

  4. Increase the overall width of your front skirt piece by 12cm to make up for the lost width in your pleat returns. Your skirt width should now be 35.5cm.

  5. Begin at the centre front square across 2 cm and square down and another 2cm and square down. These become your centre front pleat lines.

  6. Square across 8cm from your last line and square down. Then another 2cm and square down, another 2cm and square down, a further 2cm and square down and a final two centimetres and square down. These become your second front pleat lines.

  7. Cut your Front Skirt pattern piece out.

  8. Snip your notches.

  9. Add your seam allowances:

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Top Seam = 1.2 cm

Hem. 1.5 cm

  1. Label your Front Skirt pattern piece:

MINI PLEAT SKIRT

FRONT SKIRT

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

2/4  

Yoke:

Back:

  1. Take a sheet of paper and use your back skirt block as a template and trace it.

  2. Mark the location of your notches and your dart points.

  3. Remove your block

  4. Draw in your dart legs, starting from your dart notches, intersecting at the dart point. 

  5. Cut your traced pattern piece out.

  6. Close your darts, creating your waistline curve.

  7. Measure 10cm down from the waistline along the centre back to the side seam and draw a curved line mirroring your waistline curve. This becomes the hem of your Back Yoke pattern piece.

  8. Take a new sheet of paper and trace the shape of your Back Yoke pattern piece.  

  9. Snip your notches.

  10. Add your seam allowances:

1.2 cm side seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 0.6 cm

Hem = 1.5 cm

Centre Back 2 cm

  1. Label your Font Yoke pattern piece

MINI PLEAT SKIRT

FRONT YOKE

CUT 2 PAIR SELF (FUSE)

SIZE 10

3/4     

Skirt:

Back:

  1. Return to your traced back skirt block pattern and cut along the yoke hem to get tour skirt shape.

  2. Square up 20 cm along your centre back from the hemline.

  3. Square across to your seam line, adjusting the length of your skirt to 30cm. (Including your yoke your skirt will have a total length of 40cm).  

  4. Increase the overall width of your back skirt piece by 8cm to make up for the lost width in your pleat return. Your skirt width should now be 33 cm.

  5. Begin at the centre front square across 12 cm and square down and another 2cm and square down. These become your back pleat lines. 

  6. Cut your Back Skirt pattern piece out.

  7. Snip your notches.

  8. Add your seam allowances:

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Top Seam = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1.5 cm

Centre Back

  1. Label your Front Skirt pattern piece:

MINI PLEAT SKIRT

BACK SKIRT

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

4/4 

 

 

 

Full-Circle Skirt

 

(Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A3 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A2 or A1 piece of paper):

Measurements:

Circumference: 68 cm

Diameter: 21.65 cm

Radius: 10.3 cm

Length: 40 cm

  1. Firstly you will need your waistline measurement. Refer to your waistband pattern piece in order to obtain your waistline measurement. Waistline (circumference of your circle ‘C’)

C = 68 cm

  1. Once you have your waistline measurement you are able to determine the diameter (‘D’) of your circle skirt:

C = Dπ

68 = Dπ

68 ÷ π = D

D = 21.65 cm

  1. After you have determined your circles diameter you can use that measurement to determine your radius ‘R’:

R = D ÷ 2

R = 21. 65 ÷ 2

R = 10.3 cm 

  1. Once you have your radius measurement use your compass and measure 10.3 cm from the point of the compass to the tip of the pencil.

  2. Draw a circle. (Your circle should have a circumference of 68cm, a diameter of 21.65cm and a radius of 10.3cm). This becomes your waistline.

  3. Once you have drawn your circle, representing the waistline of your skirt, add your radius measurement to your total skirt length measurement:

= 10.3 + 40

= 50.3 cm

  1. Use your compass and measure 50.3 cm from the compass point to the tip of the pencil.

  2. Draw a second circle, with a radius of 50.3, with its centre intersecting the centre of the original circle. This now becomes your total skirt length.  

  3. Cut your circle out.

  4. Divide your circle in ½ to create a centre front and a centre back.

  5. Cut your 2 pieces out. 

  6. Add your seam allowances:

Front Circle piece:

Side seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1 cm

Back Circle piece:

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1 cm

Centre back. = 2 cm

  1. Snip your notches at 3mm. (Remembering your hip notches, 20cm down from your waistline).

  2. Label your pattern pieces:

Front Circle piece

FULL CIRCLE SKIRT

FRONT CIRCLE

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

1/2

Back Circle piece

FULL CIRCLE SKIRT

BACK CIRCLE

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

2/2

 

 

 

½ - Circle skirt:

 

(Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A3 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A2 piece of paper):

Measurements:

Circumference: 136 cm

Diameter: 43.31 cm

Radius: 21.65 cm

Length: 40 cm

  1. Firstly you will need your waistline measurement. Refer to your waistband pattern piece in order to obtain your waistline measurement.Waistline = 68 cm (because you are constructing a ½ circle skirt you will need to double your waistline measurement in order to determine your ½ circle skirts waistline circumference ‘C’)

C = 68 x 2

= 136 cm

  1. Once you have your waistline measurement you are able to determine the diameter (‘D’) of your circle skirt:

C = Dπ

136 = Dπ

136 ÷ π = D

D = 43.31 cm

  1. After you have determined your circles diameter you can use that measurement to determine your radius ‘R’:

R = D ÷ 2

R = 43.31 ÷ 2

R = 21.65 cm

  1. Once you have your radius measurement use your compass and measure 10.3 cm from the point of the compass to the tip of the pencil.

  1. Draw a ½ circle. (Your ½ circle should have a circumference of 136 cm, a diameter of 43.31 cm and a radius of 21.65 cm 

  1. Once you have drawn your ½ circle, representing the waistline of your skirt, add your radius measurement to your total skirt length measurement:

= 21.65 + 40

= 61.65 cm

  1. Use your compass and measure 61.65 cm from the compass point to the tip of the pencil.

  1. Draw a second ½ circle, with a radius of 61.65, with its centre intersecting the centre of the original circle. (This now becomes your total skirt length).

  1. Join the edges of your ½ circles at each edge. (These become your side seams). 

  1. Cut your half circle out.

  1. Divide your half circle into 3 pieces:

Divide your ½ circle into quarters.

One of your quarter pieces will become your ½ Circle Back pattern piece whilst our front ½ Circle pattern piece is a combination of your two centre quarters.

  1. Cut your Front and Back ½ Circle pattern pieces out. 

  1. Add your seam allowances:

Front ½ Circle piece:

Side seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1 cm

Back ½ Circle piece:

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1 cm

Centre back = 2 cm

  1. Snip your notches at 3mm. (Remembering your hip notches, 20cm down from your waistline).

  1. Label your pattern pieces:

Front ½ Circle piece

½ CIRCLE SKIRT

FRONT CIRCLE

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

1/2

Back ½ Circle piece

½ CIRCLE SKIRT

BACK CIRCLE

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

2/2 

 

 

 

 

¼ - Circle skirt

 

(Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A3 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A3 or A2 piece of paper):

Measurements:

Circumference: 272 cm

Diameter: 86.58 cm

Radius: 43.29 cm

Length: 40 cm

 

  1. Firstly you will need your waistline measurement. Refer to your waistband pattern piece in order to obtain your waistline measurement.

Waistline = 68 cm (because you are constructing a ¼ circle skirt you will need  to multiply your waistline measurement by 4 in order to determine your ¼  circles skirts waistline circumference ‘C’)

C = 68 x 4

= 272 cm

  1. Once you have your waistline measurement you are able to determine the diameter (‘D’) of your circle skirt:

C = Dπ

272 = Dπ

272 ÷ π = D

D = 86.58 cm

  1. After you have determined your circles diameter you can use that measurement to determine your radius ‘R’:

R = D ÷ 2

R = 86.58 ÷ 2

R = 43.49 cm

  1. Once you have your radius measurement use your compass and measure 43.49 cm from the point of the compass to the tip of the pencil.

  1. Draw a ¼ circle. (Your ¼ circle should have a circumference of 272 cm, a diameter of 86.58 cm and a radius of 43.49cm 

  1. Once you have drawn your ¼ circle, representing the waistline of your skirt, add your radius measurement to your total skirt length measurement:

= 43.49 + 40

= 83.49 cm

  1. Use your compass and measure 83.49 cm from the compass point to the tip of the pencil.

  1. Draw a second ¼ circle, with a radius of 83.49cm, with its centre intersecting the centre of the original circle. (This now becomes your total skirt length).

  1. Join the edges of your ¼ circles at each end. (These become your side seams). 

  1. Cut your ¼ circle out.

  2. Divide your 1/4 circle into 3 pieces

  1. Divide your ¼ circle into quarters.

One of your quarter pieces will become your ½ Circle Back pattern piece whilst our front ½ Circle pattern piece is a combination of your two centre quarters. 

  1. Cut your Front and Back ¼ Circle pattern pieces out.

  1. Add your seam allowances:

Front ¼ Circle piece:

1.2 cm Side seam = 1.2 cm

1.2 cm Waistline = 1.2 cm

1 cm Hem = 1 cm

Back ¼ Circle piece:

Side Seam = 1.2 cm

Waistline = 1.2 cm

Hem = 1 cm

Centre back. = 2 cm

  1. Snip your notches at 3mm. (Remembering your hip notches, 20cm down from your waistline).

  2. Label your pattern pieces:

Front ¼ Circle piece

¼ CIRCLE SKIRT

FRONT CIRCLE

CUT 1 SELF ON FOLD

SIZE 10

1/2

Back ¼ Circle piece

¼ CIRCLE SKIRT

BACK CIRCLE

CUT 1 PAIR SELF

SIZE 10

2/2

 

 

 

 

Waistband

 

(Note: measurements for 3rd scale drawings are to be done using a 3rd scale ruler on an A4 piece of paper. Full-scale drawings are to be done using a full-scale ruler on an A2/A1 piece of paper): 

  1. Draw a rectangle with a length of 68cm and a width of 6cm. The width of your rectangle represents your centre back lines.

  2. Measure 34.8cm from the left hand side of your rectangle and square down. This will create your centre front line. (You have now divided your waistband into the front and back pieces, the left is your front and the right is the back).

  3. Measure 17.4 cm to the left of your centre front line and square down. This creates your side seam

  4. Repeat the previous step to the right to create your other side seam.

  5. Add a 1.2 cm seam allowance to the length of your waistband. Altogether your width will now become:

6 + 1.2 + 1.2

= 8.4

  1. Add a 1.2 cm seam allowance to your front piece, parallel to the centre back lime.

  2. Add a 3cm extension for your button piece on your back piece, parallel to your other centre back line.

  3. Add a further 1.2 cm seam allowance to your back piece, parallel to your extension line. Altogether the length of your waistband will now be:

68 + 1.2 + 3 + 1.2

= 73.4 cm 

  1. Cut your Waistband pattern piece out.

  2. Fold your pattern in half and draw a line along the fold. (This line represents grain line and assists you if you choose to cut your pattern piece on the fold. If you choose to use this method you just fold your pattern along this fold, align it along the fold of your fabric and cut your piece out.

  3. Snip your notches at 3mm:

  4. Label your Waistband pattern piece:

WAISTBAND

CUT 1 SELF (FUSE)

SIZE 10

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